New molecular approach to hair colour pioneered by Leeds and Estée Lauder

A groundbreaking collaboration between the University of Leeds, Keracol Limited, and Aveda, part of Estée Lauder, has delivered a study that could reshape the future of hair colouring.

The work, published in the journal Heliyon, unveils a fresh way of analysing how dye molecules interact with different hair types and textures. Traditional techniques tend to focus only on visible colour changes, but this new approach looks deeper, exploring what happens at the molecular level to understand why and how colour fades over time.

The research was co-led by Richard Blackburn, Professor of Sustainable Materials at the School of Design. Along with Professor Chris Rayner from the School of Chemistry, he co-founded Keracol Limited, a University of Leeds spin-out company dedicated to sustainable innovation in colour chemistry.

“We’ve adapted advanced techniques that were originally developed to study dyes in historic textiles,” explained Professor Blackburn.

“It’s exciting to see how methods used in museums can be transformed into tools for cutting-edge hair research. Our long-running partnership with Aveda has allowed us to create a one-of-a-kind analytical method that reveals what’s happening at the molecular level, far beyond what the eye can see.”

The team used a specially designed solvent system to pull dye molecules from a broad range of hair samples – from natural blondes and greys to black curly and bleached hair. These extracts were then studied with high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), which traced how different hair properties influence dye retention. The findings could pave the way for longer-lasting, less damaging hair colour solutions.

Dr Jeanna Zguris, Executive Director of Haircare Innovation and Analytical at Aveda, commented:

“This represents an entirely new way of looking at how hair dye behaves across hair types and textures. It’s not just about retention, it also helps us see how formulations interact with the fibre itself. With this knowledge, we can create colour that stays vibrant longer, causes less damage, and ultimately helps people keep their hair strong and healthy.”

This research underlines the power of academic–industrial partnerships to spark innovation, with the University of Leeds’ expertise in design and colour chemistry continuing to influence sustainable solutions on a global scale.